Hot Science with Mary Turner · Issue 02 · October 2026
Hi ladies! The pumpkins are out, the sun is finally taking it easy, and that makes it my favorite time of year: peel season. Less sun means happier skin after a peel. So grab your coffee and put on your lab goggles (kidding, mostly). Let's talk acids.
First, the big idea. A peel is just a controlled exfoliation. An acid loosens the "glue" holding dull, tired surface cells together so they let go and fresher skin shows up. How deep it goes depends on which acid, how strong, and how long it sits. Different acids, different personalities.
Lactic acid: the sweetheart
Lactic is the gentle one, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that's lovely for dry, dull, or sensitive skin.
The science behind it: Lactic is basically glycolic's twin wearing one extra accessory (a little methyl group, for my fellow nerds). Same acidity as glycolic, but a bigger molecule, so it sinks in slower and plays nicer. It's the gentle one. Lower strength, softer recovery. Love that for us.
At the spa: Our Signature Facial with Lunchtime Peel is a great first date with peels.
Glycolic acid: the overachiever
Glycolic is the classic for dullness, rough texture, fine lines, and uneven tone.
The science behind it: It's the smallest AHA there is, just two carbons. Tiny molecule, easy entry, fast results. The stronger it is and the lower its pH, the more it works, which is exactly why a pro times it and neutralizes it. This is not a bathroom-cabinet experiment, girls.
At the spa: Want more exfoliation? The Ultimate Exfoliating Facial pairs a gentle lunchtime peel with LED red light.
Salicylic acid: the pore detective
Salicylic is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), and it's the go-to for clogged pores and breakouts. Yes, grown women break out too. Ask me how I know.
The science behind it: Salicylic is oil-soluble. Most acids hang out on the surface, but this one slides right into the oily pore and cleans house from the inside. It's a cousin of aspirin, so skip it if you're pregnant or allergic to aspirin.
At the spa: Our MT Clear Treatment (Acne) uses peels, LED and extractions. Breakouts on your back? Ask about the Half Back Peel or Full Back Peel.
Jessner's and the "blend" peels: the girl group
Some of the most popular peels are blends. The famous one, Jessner's, mixes three ingredients: salicylic, lactic, and resorcinol.
The science behind it: Each one works on a different part of the problem, a little like a band where everyone plays a different instrument. More layers mean a deeper peel, and pros even use it as a "primer" before a stronger peel. Fair warning: you'll flake a bit more for a few days.
At the spa: Not sure which blend is right for you? Book a Skin Care Consult and we'll match the peel to your skin.
TCA: the heavy hitter
TCA (trichloroacetic acid) is the one people whisper about. At lighter strengths it smooths and evens out tone. At stronger, medium-depth strengths it goes after sun damage and fine lines.
The science behind it: TCA doesn't just loosen cells. It makes the proteins in the top layer set, like an egg white, and that's the "frost" you see. It can't be neutralized, so skill is everything. The stronger versions can mean about a week of redness and peeling, so plan around your calendar.
At the spa: We use a variety of peels, from gentle lactic acid to deeper, more ablative peels. Ask about a Facial Peel and we'll match the depth to your skin.
Ingredient Spotlight: mandelic acid
What it is: an AHA that comes from bitter almonds. Fancy, right?
What it does: It exfoliates like its AHA sisters, but it's about twice glycolic's size and carries a bulky ring structure, so it soaks in slowly and evenly. Think slow drip, not fire hose. Studies look at it for acne and dark spots.
Who it's for: sensitive, acne-prone, or uneven skin that throws a fit with stronger acids.
The fine print (because I love you)
Peels aren't for everyone. Pregnant? On or recently off isotretinoin? Get cold sores or raised scars easily? Tell us first. And afterward: no picking, moisturize, wear sunscreen every single day, and stick to clean mineral makeup only until your skin is fully healed. (We highly recommend Advanced Mineral Makeup by professional makeup artist Annie Mayo. Her powdered foundation is coming soon to the spa.) Trust me, I've been doing this since 1983, and sunscreen is the whole ballgame.
That's the science, girls!
Fall is the perfect time to start. Come see me and let's find your peel match. See you in two weeks with more.
Mary Turner Day Spa & Salon, 2539 Wilmington Rd, Suite C, New Castle, PA 16105. Book online or call (724) 657-5156 to book.